Dare to step off the beaten path and experience our unconventional sightseeing tours of Buenos Aires on bike. Urban Biking invites you to take one of our unique guided cycling tours of Buenos Aires and surrounding areas. All of our cultural and sightseeing tours are one day bike tours, which we feel is the best way to explore the city and visit places otherwise inaccessible by car.
Learn about our Buenos Aires city biking tours.

Our four sightseeing tour routes include traditional Buenos Aires city bike tours as well as offbeat excursions, like our guided tours to traditional estancias and to the Tigre Delta. Our guides are passionate about sharing their extensive cultural knowledge of this vast city during the sightseeing tours with their groups. We prefer to think of our guided tours as alternative Buenos Aires sightseeing tours that share the local culture, history, architecture and urban folklore with our travellers.
All of our guided cycling tours include bike rental, helmet, traditional mate and refreshments.

All you need to bring is comfortable clothing and a thirst to explore the unknown.

La Bicicleta Naranja - Bike rental

With La Bicicleta Naranja, Buenos Aires city is something more than a rout in the map. You´ll build on wheels your own adventure, immersing yourself in the city´s history, culture and the present by the citizen´s eyes.

La Bicicleta Naranja - Bike rental details

Address: Pasaje Giuffra 308, San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Phone: 54 11 4362 1104
Homepage: www.labicicletanaranja.com.ar

Ultimately we would like you to rent SanTelmo85.com for your Buenos Aires short term rental or long term rental.

HOWEVER, a garantia is not always required. You can often speak to the owner (dueno) and try to reach an agreement, which may involve you paying a large deposit, or paying a lot of the rent up front (maybe 6 months to a year) or even paying a little over the asked rent rate. A lot of owners will not want to do this, but it is worth asking…

Buenos Aires Apartments Key Search Resource: Clarin

If you speak decent Spanish, probably the best place to look for renting is the Clarin website (the most popular BA newspaper). This is where you will find the best bargains, the prices that locals pay:

Then search for the type of housing you want to rent, for what price, in what areas etc. But, this method only works well if you are in Argentina. The usual process is to buy Clarin every day (or search the website every day), find what apartments etc you like the sound of, then turn up at the address and viewing time detailed (sometimes waiting in line on the street to do so!) for each one. If you are currently in another country, you have two options if you go down this renting route:

* Pay someone in Buenos Aires to do it for you (a locator). Give me an email or leave a comment if you would like me to recommend somebody for you.

* RECOMMENDED: Come to Buenos Aires personally to find the place you want. Either you could do a “pre-visit”, staying in a furnished apartment and spending each day looking for places to rent, then renting somewhere ready for when you make the move, OR you could make the move and stay in a furnished apartment until you find a place.

BUENOS AIRES TRAVEL GUIDE SPECIAL HINT: Find an Argentine boyfriend/girlfriend to help you out with the whole Buenos Aires apartments searching process! Not only will you find more doors open with a local on your side, but this has some nice side benefits too
Additional Search Resources

These links should also help you out in your search for a cheap, long-term apartment rental in Buenos Aires:
* The YesBA Mailing list (sign up through that link)
* Craigslist Buenos Aires
* La Nacion Classifieds (2nd most popular newspaper in BA. Clarin is the mainstream tabloid, La Nacion the more serious broadsheet). There may be some repitition between Clarin and La Nacion listings
* www.santelmo85.com - the website you are on right now!
* www.ArgenProp.com.ar

Final Buenos Aires Apartment Rental Tip

Look for properties that are being rented by the owners themselves, not by the Inmobiliarias (estate agents), as the big agencies will be more expensive and will not be reasonable with people that do not have a garantia, whereas owners will be open to discussion……….and possibly even sweet-talk from your good-looking Argentina girlfriend/boyfriend!

Good luck to anyone looking for long term apartment rentals in Buenos Aires. Contact us for availability

Please find below the Buenos Aires Hotels recommended by the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide, listed by type (Luxury Hotels, Design Hotels, Classic Hotels, Budget Hotels, Boutique Hotels etc).

You may also be interested in this post on my Top 5 Luxury Hotels in Buenos Aires (and how to experience them on the cheap).

Otherwise, please feel free to check the links for hotel rates, availability, bookings and additional information…

Room rates, availability & bookings for all Hotels in Buenos Aires
Luxury Hotels in Buenos Aires

* Four Seasons Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086/88 (between Cerrito & Libertad), Recoleta - famous luxury hotel chain with top-notch service and a French style mansion house within its grounds [Check Rates & Availability]

* Alvear Palace Hotel [Check Rates & Availability], Avenida Alvear 1891 (corner of Ayacucho), Recoleta - the luxury hotel in Buenos Aires, with prices to match, situated, or course, on Buenos Aires’ most upscale avenue

* Caesar Park Hotel [Check Rates & Availability], Posadas 1232 (between Montevideo & Rodriguez Pena), Recoleta - welcoming, comfortable facilities alongside beautifully appointed furnishings and wonderful interior design

* Sofitel Buenos Aires [Check Rates & Availability], Arroyo 841/849 (between Esmerelda & Suipacha), Retiro - this hotel is an old restored private mansion in the center of the heart of the art gallery district of Buenos Aires

* Claridge Hotel [Check Rates & Availability], Tucuman 535 (between San Martin & Florida), City Center - in the heart of modern downtown Buenos Aires, an oasis of old-school tranquility, service & design, in a lovely Tudor style building

* Hilton Buenos Aires [Check Rates & Availability], Av. Macacha Guemes 351 (between P. Dealessi & Juana Manso), Puerto Madero - you know what to expect from a Hilton - quality, luxury and great service; all in the hippest new barrio of Buenos Aires

* Marriott Plaza Hotel [Check Rates & Availability], Florida 1005 (corner of Marcelo T de Alvear), Plaza San Martin, fantastic location in front of leafy Plaza San Martin, the Plaza Hotel has been one of the most revered in Buenos Aires for almost 100 years

* Panamericano Buenos Aires Hotel [Check Rates & Availability], Carlos Pelligrini 551 (between Lavalle & Tucuman), City Center - overlooks Av. 9 de Julio, close to the Teatro Colon & Obelisk, which can be viewed from on high in its stylish rooms

Room rates, availability & bookings for all Hotels in Buenos Aires
Luxury Design Hotels in Buenos Aires

* Faena Hotel + Universe [Check Rates & Availability], Martha Salotti 445 (between Juana Manso & A.Paine), Puerto Madero - wow, this place is like something out of a dream, with a pretentiousness to match its name; a fantastically designed hotel in every way

* Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau [Check Rates & Availability], Av. Alvear 1661 (between Montevideo & Rodriguez Pena), Recoleta - the other hotel on the most upscale avenue in town, however this new Park Hyatt is perhaps even more luxurious and beautiful

* Hotel Madero, Rosario Vera Penaloza 360 (between O. Cossentini & Juana Manso), Puerto Madero - chic modern style, like the rest of Puerto Madero, with a fantastic restaurant, cocktail bar and pool to enjoy

* Esplendor de Buenos Aires, San Martin 780 (corner of Cordoba), City Center - a beautiful old hotel restored to its former glory, in a very convenient downtown location a block from Florida shopping street

* Hotel Emperador, Av. del Libertador 420 (corner of Suipacha), Retiro - handcrafted furnishings, gigantic rooms, and beautiful views of the Rio de la Plata; situated close to the center, in Retiro’s art gallery district

* 725 Buenos Aires, Av. Roque Saenz Pena 725 (between Maipu & Esmerelda), City Center - part of the amazing architectural unity along Diagonal Norte, packed with facilities & close to Plaza de Mayo

The first idea that came to mind was to post up here some edited-down versions of the walking tours I offer, along with some pictures, directions and maps, to firstly prove that I know what I am talking about, and secondly to give you a brief idea of what my tours cover.

There is also the added benefit that anybody thinking about doing some DIY walking tours during their visit to Buenos Aires can print and use my suggested routes, completely free!

The first tour route is what I call the ‘Buenos Aires City History Tour‘ - covering the historical heart of the city and many of it’s most important buildings, in addition to a lot of fantastic architecture, and some great cafes. It starts in Plaza de Mayo, home to the executive arm of the Argentine government (the Casa Rosada), ends in Plaza Congreso outside the legislative arm (the Congress building) and walks down Avenida de Mayo in between, the ‘grand boulevard’ of Buenos Aires that connects these two most important of Buenos Aires structures.

So, if this sounds like the kind of tour you’ll be looking for during your visit to Buenos Aires, then either print out this blog post to do a self-guided walking tour, or contact me to book this as a private guided walking tour - something that I can assure you will be far more enjoyable and hassle-free than struggling round the busy city center with an upside down map clasped in your hands!
Suggested Walking Tour of Buenos Aires

To get some organizational matters in order first, this is how you read this self-guided tour to Buenos Aires:

* The directions (where to walk, look, stop etc) are written in italics
* Each stop is numbered and contains a brief overview of the attraction
* For further help, the attractions can be found numbered on the tour map at the end of this post
* There is a link at the end of this post to a print-friendly version of this page. However, that will not print the images, so if you want to print the map too you should right-click on it and select “print image”

The descriptions of each attraction are quite short and sweet for now, because I didn’t want to write a ‘War and Peace’ walking tour, and as you will see it is already pretty long even with just the succinct overviews of each stop. However, in the near future I will be writing about many of the attractions found on this tour in greater detail, in blog posts of their own, and then linking to them from within this post so that you can find more information on anything that interests you.

So please nobody say… “you forgot to mention this!” or “did you realize that”… etc - although obviously if I have made any glaring mistakes I would welcome constructive feedback on those

Anyway, please read on for the first of my self-guided walking tours of Buenos Aires…

Start in Plaza de Mayo, at the end of the square that has a big statue of a guy on a horse (Manuel Belgrano, for the record), and first look back down the square to get an overall view of it…
Plaza de Mayo

Since Buenos Aires was successfully founded in 1580, Plaza de Mayo (’May Square’) has been the center of city life. From the early days it was surrounded by government (the Cabildo - colonial government HQ), religion, (the Cathedral), and military (the Buenos Aires fort, which used to stand where we now see the Pink House).

View of Plaza de Mayo, the historical heart of Buenos Aires

Plaza de Mayo was originally called Plaza Mayor (’Main Square’), and then later went through a few more name changes due to it being split into two squares in c.1800 when a colonial market building known as a Recova was built, running across the width of the square, at approximately where you can see the metal barriers today. The Recova was demolished in 1884 by Mayor Alvear as part of his modernization of Buenos Aires, and only at that point did the whole square become known as Plaza de Mayo, as it is today.

OK, now turn around and stand with Argentina’s government house facing you across the road. Yes, that’s the big pink one…

Casa Rosada / Pink House Buenos Aires1. Casa Rosada: The ‘Pink House’ succeeded the Cabildo as government house in 1873. There are many theories as to why it is pink, my favorite being that there was a white paint shortage during President Sarmiento’s reign, so his men mixed the paint with cows’ blood to make it last longer (and for damp-proofing), giving the striking shade of pink. The balcony to your left (not the center) was where President Peron & his wife Evita gave speeches to crowds of up to 200,000 in Plaza de Mayo. In the years since then the balcony has become the focal point of many national events and announcements.

Now turn back around to face the rest of the plaza, and walk past the fountains, then round the right hand side of the metal riot barriers (how lovely!) and keep going to the center of the Plaza until you are facing the tall white monument in it’s center…

Pyramide de Mayo in Plaza de mayo2. Pyramide de Mayo: The ‘May Pyramid’ was built in 1811 to celebrate the 1st anniversary of the “May Revolution” on 25th May 1810. The original pyramid was wooden, only being set in stone in 1856. The white scarf symbols on the ground circling the pyramid represent the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, an association of mothers whose children were “disappeared” (i.e. murdered) by the Argentine military dictatorship of 1976-83. Each Thursday since 1977 the madres have formed a protest around the pyramid, wearing white scarves representing the diapers of their lost children.

Keep walking in the same direction, past the pyramid, to the other end of the square, and stand looking at the Cabildo; a simple, white arched building across the road…

El Cabildo in Plaza de Mayo3. The Cabildo: A rare example of colonial architecture left in the city, the Cabildo was the original colonial government building from 1609-1810. Due to the structurally weak building material called adobe that was used in colonial times, it had to be rebuilt many times in its early years. Around the turn of the 20th century, 6 of its original 11 colonial arches were demolished to make way for the building of Avenida de Mayo (1894) & Diagonal Sur (1930s). Yet it still contains some of its original foundations/walls, and therefore lays claim to being the oldest building left standing in Buenos Aires.

Now turn right from where you were facing and walk over to the corner crossing, facing the Cathedral, which with all those classical columns might have you thinking it is actually a Greek Temple…

Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral4. Cathedral (Exterior): The most important Catholic building in Argentina, and so one of the most important buildings here period, as Argentina is a Catholic state. The Cathedral was built at the same time as the Cabildo, using the same weak adobe. However, the Cathedral fared even worse than the Cabildo, suffering 7 total collapses in 200 years. In 1827 this sturdier neo-classical stone construction was completed. The 12 Corinthian columns represent the apostles; the facade engraved with a scene from Genesis, where Joseph is reunited with his father and brothers in Egypt.

Carefully make you way over the two stage road-crossing to your right, head up the steps at the front of the Cathedral and walk a few steps to the right until you get to the central entrance. Before you go in, note the eternal flame down the far end of the external wall, burning in memory of General San Martin, the independence hero whose tomb you will see inside. Go in the door and turn right to enter the main cathedral…

General San Martin’s Tomb in Buenos Aires Cathedral5. Cathedral (Interior): The Cathedral interior is beautiful and peaceful, but the main attraction is found in the fourth small altar along the right-hand corridor. Here lies the remains of General San Martin, who led Argentina’s revolutionary troops to victory over the Spanish loyalists in the 1810-16 wars of independence, before proceeding to help liberate Chile, Peru & Ecuador between 1817-22, as can be seen on the plaque fronting his magnificent tomb. The two scary guys with swords are Granaderos, the regiment San Martin created, and guard his body Mon-Sat.

After a good look around the rest of the interior, exit the Cathedral again through the main entrance, and first cross over to the central traffic island, before crossing over to you right. Once safely over, go left and walk towards the next street corner, which is the start of Avenida de Mayo (you will see a street sign on this corner). At this corner, turn right to begin walking down this wonderful avenue…
Avenida de Mayo - Part 1

Avenida de Mayo was opened in 1894, built to be Buenos Aires’ grand boulevard, like the Champs-Elysees in Paris or the Gran Via of Madrid. Buenos Aires looks to Europe for much of its culture, often being labeled the “Paris of The Americas”. This isn’t surprising when you consider that Argentines are largely descended from recent European immigrants, mainly from Italy, but also Spain, France & Germany among others. They arrived between 1880 & 1930, when Argentina had one of the fastest growing economies in the world. With immigration came foreign investment, enabling extravagant Avenida de Mayo to be built with no expense spared…

View of the start of Avenida de Mayo

Due to its construction at the turn of the 20th century, the avenue contains a fair amount of beautiful Parisian-inspired Art Nouveau and Beaux Arts buildings, when these over-the-top architectural styles were at the height of their popularity. These days, while the street and many of its buildings are in desperate need of repair, it’s not hard to imagine how glorious it was during its heyday, especially if you look up at the beautiful architecture that lines the avenue (but please walk carefully as you do so).

Now walk down Av. de Mayo a little and cross over at the first crossing. When you get to the other side, turn around and look back across at the former La Prensa building - it has it’s name in front of a large statue up on the roof…

Former La Prensa Newspaper Building, Avenida de Mayo 6. Former La Prensa Building: Constructed in 1898 as the offices for the La Prensa newspaper, this is a great example no the no-expense spared philosophy the avenue was built to. The grand exterior has imposing cast-iron doors, curvy lamps, bronze ornamentation, carved granite, and a Mansard roof, like the Louvre in Paris. The inside is equally elegant. Up top is a 4 ton statue of Greek Goddess Pallas Athenea: her lit torch and printed page symbolize press freedom. Peron didn’t agree with the sentiment, shutting the paper down after coming to power in 1946. The building now houses the Casa de la Cultura.

Looking back at street level, you should now be standing next to the steps down to Peru subway station on the A Line. Go down the steps for a trip back in time…

Inside Peru Subte Station7. Peru Subte Station: When it was built in 1913, Buenos Aires subway Line A became the first subway in the southern hemisphere, and also within the Spanish speaking world. Peru is the best preserved station on the whole line, like descending into a time capsule of BA city life almost 100 years ago, with its atmospheric dim lamp lighting, period kiosk stalls, hand painted wall adverts, colorful tiling, and most interestingly of all, the original wooden subway cars with manual sliding doors. With a bit of luck, you’ll get to ride one of these in a moment.

Turn to the booth selling subway tickets, queuing if needs be, and when at the ticket window say “uno” or “dos” or “tres” etc (depending on how many tickets you want, silly) - the tickets cost 70 centavos each and they will give change, but it is probably not advisable trying to pay with anything over a 10 peso note. Once you have the tickets, use them in them automatic turnstile to get through onto the station platform…

Inside carriage on Buenos Aires Subway Line A8. Riding the A Line: You’ll probably want to ride in an old restored wooden subway car, so wait until one arrives, as some of the trains are new. Get on and ride one stop up to Piedras station. The line runs the length of Avenida de Mayo and beyond, and when it was built in 1913 (for any Brits or Anglophiles out there, it is British built) the trains were hurtling along underground while horse-drawn carriages still ran on the street above. The creaky old ride is often a bumpy one, so make sure you hold on tight, but still take the chance to survey the all-wooden interior.

Once you’ve survived the short ride to Piedras station, go straight through the turnstiles and up th steps on your left hand side to exit back on to the avenue. Once there, walk a few steps to where you can cross over to the other side of the avenue. Then turn to your left after crossing and walk a little bit down to Cafe Tortoni, at Av. de Mayo 825…

Cafe Tortoni, Buenos Aires9. Cafe Tortoni: The cafe in a city of cafes. Tortoni is the most famous and oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, founded in 1858. By 1920 Cafe Tortoni had become home to many intellectuals & artists’ meetings in Buenos Aires. Famous past patrons include painter Benito Quinquela Martin, writer Jorge Luis Borges, and tango singer Carlos Gardel. The main attraction is the ornate interior: tall Ionic columns, stained-glass skylights, restored oak tables, plus paintings, pictures & models of illustrious clientèle, all create a great setting to enjoy your cafe con leche y tres medialunas.

From Cafe Tortoni, keep walking in the same direction to the end of the block (the cross-street is Tacuari), and before you cross look down to your left where you will see a somewhat makeshift plaque resting on the floor…

Plaque to Gaston Riva, killed during Dec 2001 Riots10. Plaque to Gaston Riva: Gaston Riva was shot dead by the police on this spot during the riots that occurred during Argentina’s economic meltdown in December 2001. After the government froze all bank accounts, there was widespread rioting and looting on the 19th - 20th December in this area around Plaza de Mayo, and across the rest of the country, and when the police were dispatched to deal with it they sadly ended up shooting dead 26 people, including poor Gaston Riva here. Adding insult to injury, the memorial plaque has clearly been broken from its former vertical position.

Cross over Tacuari and keep walk the length of the next block, noticing the interesting modern mural of Buenos Aires across the street, until you reach a huge intersection of traffic that you probably heard coming. Wait here before you start the long staged crossing…
Crossing 9 de Julio

You are standing in front of Avenida 9 de Julio, a massive 140m wide avenue that porteños claim to be the widest street in the world. It may take a few traffic light cycles to cross safely, so please be patient and cross safely.

Busy 9 de Julio, Buenos Aires

Av. 9 de Julio was opened in 1936, although expansion continued right the way through to the 1960s. Unfortunately building the road meant that many city blocks had to be turned to rubble, many containing beautiful or historic buildings. The only two that survived along the route were the large and ugly government communications building to the south, and the small but perfectly formed French Embassy to the north.

Make your way over the many crossings in front of you, until you reach the traffic island in the very center. While you are waiting for the traffic lights to turn in your favor, here’s a bite size piece Argentine history to digest…

Argentina’s Flag 11. Argentine Independence: Avenida 9 de Julio is so named to mark the date when Argentina (then known as the “United Provinces of the River Plate”) declared official independence from its former colonial rulers, Spain. This occurred on the 9th July, 1816, at the “Congress of Tucuman”. However, this date is not the most important on the Argentine calendar… independence was really gained in the “May Revolution” of 25th May, 1810: it just took six years for things to become ‘official’ (even then, this was not recognized by world powers for a few more years).

Once in the central traffic island of Avenida 9 de Julio, turn to your right and look down the avenue where you will notice a very conspicuous looking large white monument standing proudly erect a few blocks away…

El Obelisco / The Obelisk, Buenos Aires12. El Obelisco: The Obelisk has been dominating the skyline of this area since it opened in May 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the (supposed) 1st attempt to found Buenos Aires, by Spanish sailor Pedro de Mendoza. It also stands in the spot where the Argentine flag was raised for the first time. At 68m tall, the Obelisk is a pretty obvious meeting place. In fact, after important sporting victories, it is the place to meet for a rowdy, traffic-halting celebration. Recently, on World AIDS Awareness Day, a giant pink condom was placed over the Obelisk for a day. I kid you not.

Continue the long journey over 9 de Julio until you are on the last traffic island, where you can glance over to your left to see an interesting modern sculpture…

Sculpture of Don Quijote de la Mancha13. Don Quijote de la Mancha Sculpture: This sculpture was a gift from Queen Sofia of Spain to mark the 400th anniversary of the successful founding of Buenos Aires by the Spanish in 1580, led by Juan de Garay. Many say that one reason this founding was successful where previous attempts had failed was that it brought along one vital magic ingredient… a woman! Her name was Ana Diaz, and she is credited with playing an important role in the settling of Buenos Aires. Perhaps without her woman’s touch, Buenos Aires would not have been settled and you wouldn’t be visiting this great city…

Make the last crossing over 9 de Julio to rejoin Avenida de Mayo…
Avenida de Mayo - Part 2

This concluding stretch of Avenida de Mayo is a bit of a mixed bag. Along the way you will see some fantastic individual pieces of architecture, which unfortunately are randomly distributed in among some modern monstrosities that have taken their toll on the overall design of the avenue. However, let’s not allow poor city planning get in the way of our enjoyment, as the individual buildings we will focus on really are a joy to behold.

View of the end of Avenida de Mayo

In addition to the modern buildings that have taken away a little of the avenues heritage, at street level things have also deteriorated a fair bit, and as you will be looking up at quite a lot of the buildings from here on, please be careful not to trip on the cracked/missing pavement as you go. And if you do, don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Cross over to the left hand side of Avenida de Mayo at the first crossing immediately after 9 de Julio, then continue down the block until you reach the Hotel Castelar on your left, at Av. de Mayo 1152…

The Castelar Hotel, Avenida de Mayo14. Hotel Castelar: The Castelar was opened in 1928 with the claim of being the 1st hotel in South America with a ‘refrigerated parlor’. Strange, but true: the thick Italian Carrara marble that lines the walls keeps internal temperatures at 6oc lower than outside, during the hot Buenos Aires summer. A plaque on the marble wall states that famous Spanish writer Federico Garcia Lorca stayed here in room number 704, from October 1933 - March 1934. Just two and a half years later, at the tender age of 38, Lorca was murdered by nationalists at the start of the Spanish Civil War.

Continue down the block and at the end, not only cross over Salta, but also cross over to the right hand side of the avenue, and walk down a little way before stopping to look back across the road at the small Teatro Avenida theater…

Teatro Avenida, Buenos Aires15. Teatro Avenida: This theater was where Lorca put on his play Bodas de Sangre (Blood Wedding), during his 6 month stay in Buenos Aires. It is part of his ‘rural trilogy’, regarded to be one of the best works of Spanish language theater of the past 100 years. After his untimely murder in Spain, with his works banned there by General Franco, the 2nd & 3rd parts were put on in the Teatro Avenida, allowing his work to still be enjoyed by many. The theater, which opened in 1908, was almost completely destroyed by fire in 1979. It was restored in 1994, but unfortunately to nowhere near its former glory.

Go a little further down this block and soon, on your right hand side, you will come across Bar 36 Billares, at Av. de Mayo 1265…

Cafe Bar 36 Billares, Buenos Aires16. Bar 36 Billares: Third and final stop on this mini Lorca tour within a tour; Bar 36 Billares was his favorite watering hole while in Buenos Aires. With the places he slept, worked and relaxed all within a block, he obviously didn’t like to walk far! The bar itself became the first place with billiard tables in Argentina when it opened in 1894, the same year Avenida de Mayo was inaugurated. It is a nice example of a traditional bar to share a bottle or three of Quilmes beer (far from my favorite, but an Argentine institution) with friends, and maybe play a few games of billiards or pool.

Walk down to the end of the block, cross over Santiago del Estero, and then on the corner turn back from where you came and look across and up at the lovely architecture of the Hotel Chile…

Art Nouveau Facade of the Hotel Chile17. Hotel Chile: Built in 1907, the Hotel Chile is possibly the finest example of Art Nouveau along Avenida de Mayo, with its wonderful curves and twisting serpentine lines of the intricate cast iron balconies. It also has some Middle Eastern influences, with a lovely decorative glazed ornamental tiling above the windows, in a style known as Faience, found in many Arabic countries. The Hotel Chile was once crowned by a magnificent wooden dome, but this was destroyed by fire in 1988 along with much of the original interior - unfortunately the Hotel is not a great place to stay these days.

Begin walking down this next block, and soon on your right you will be standing next to a very interesting building at Avenida de Mayo 1333…

Former Critica Newspaper Building in Art Deco Style18. Former Critica Building: This building, once home to the left-wing Critica newspaper (Borges was a contributer), is a complete departure from the Art Nouveau seen along the rest of the avenue. It was built in 1926, a good 10 years later than most other old buildings along the avenue, when Art Nouveau had become distinctly passé and Art Deco was the hot new style. It’s zig-zag lines and geometrical shapes are a nice change from all those curves, along with the neo-Egyptian sculptures and ships bows, all common Art Deco themes. Now home to the Federal Police HQ!

Walk a bit further along the block until you have a good view across the avenue to what is obviously the tallest building in this area, the one with a central tower. It is probably best to walk slightly past it to get a good perspective when looking up at the building…

Palacio Barolo, Avenida de Mayo19. Palacio Barolo: Easily my favorite building on the avenue. Built by Italians Luigi Barolo & Mario Palanti in honor the father of their language, Dante Alighieri, it plays tribute to his epic poem ‘The Divine Comedy’. It’s three sections represent the three books of the poem; Hell, Purgatory & Paradise. It’s 100m height represents the 100 verses, and 22 floors for the number of stanzas in each verse, along with many other numerical & architectural tributes. When it was built in 1923 it was for a short while the tallest building in South America, and remained the tallest in Buenos Aires until 1935.

Keep going to the end of the block and cross over San Jose, then find a good spot anywhere on the next block to look over and across the road at the large building which takes up the whole block on the other side of the avenue…

Red Corner Dome on the La Inmobiliaria Building20. La Inmobiliaria Building: Built in 1910 as offices for the now defunct La Inmobiliaria insurance company, this block-filler offers a nice segue from the Art Nouveau of Av. de Mayo to the Neo-Classical themes we will soon see on the Argentine Congress building, in that it combines both architectural styles. The colorful decorative tiled sign of the building’s name across the top, cute cast-iron balconies and red domes that grace each corner are distinctly Art-Nouveau, while Neo-Classical embellishments include Ionic columns & prominent statues of the Greek Gods.

Finish walking to the end of the block, where you will come to the end of Avenida de Mayo, and be staring across into the long, rectangular Plaza Congreso in front of you…
Plaza Congreso

The Plaza de Los Dos Congresos as it is officially known, or Plaza Congreso for short, was designed to be the place where Buenos Aires would celebrate the May Revolution centenary of 1910.

View of Plaza Congreso and the Argentine Congress Building

Just 16 years previously, Avenida de Mayo had been built to finish directly in front of the Congress building, and therefore many completely new, extravagant buildings like you saw along the rest of the avenue had to be demolished to make way for the building of Plaza Congreso. Talk about a lack of forward planning!

Still standing on the right-hand end corner of Avenida de Mayo, look over diagonally to your right where you should be able to see a small theater with some gold trim on the corner of Rivadavia and Luis Saenz Peña…

Evita and Juan Peron21. Teatro Liceo: This is the oldest theater in Buenos Aires, founded in 1872. It also happens to be the stage where a struggling young 1940s actress called Eva Duarte performed on her way to a moderately successful stage, film and radio acting career. The small fame she achieved gave her the opportunity to meet politician Juan Peron, the pair quickly married in 1945, and the newly-named Evita Peron soon became one of the most famous first ladies ever. Incidentally, her movies were soon banned in Argentina, as it was not the done thing for politicians to mix with entertainers back then!

Cross over to the left-hand side of Avenida de Mayo, then cross over again, forward into the start of Plaza Congreso, where you will soon see a statue on your left, next to the huge tree…

Staue of Mariano Moreno, 1st Secretary of the Independent Argentina22. Moreno Statue: This initial area after Av. de Mayo is officially called Plaza Moreno, though most people consider it as part of Plaza Congreso. It is named after Mariano Moreno, whose statue stands under the branches of the huge tree. Moreno was the secretary of the 1st Argentine self-ruling government in 1810, in addition to founding the 1st Argentine paper (the Buenos Aires Gazette) & the national library, while still finding time to be an independence hero… quite a busy guy! Sadly however, shortly after the May Revolution, Moreno was assassinated by Spanish loyalists.

Walk straight ahead down the center of the Plaza, until you come to a small but familiar bronze statue…

The Thinker / Le Penseur Sculpture, Plaza Congreso23. The Thinker: One of the few original-cast made copies of Rodin’s famous sculpture Le Penseur, or “The Thinker” in English. One theory is that it was sculpted in the image of Dante sitting outside the gates of Hell, pondering the great journey ahead of him (as depicted in the ‘Divine Comedy’) - therefore it’s position here is extremely appropriate, in that it faces the Palacio Barolo, another tribute to Dante’s epic poem, that also has its very own ‘gates of Hell’. Yet it seems that the only ones that appreciate this are the pigeons, who obviously can’t get enough of classic French sculpture

Keep walking past the statue, down the center of the Plaza, and when you get to the road that intersects the middle of it, turn left to walk to the left-hand corner of the Plaza. Before you cross, look over the road to your left, where you should be able to see a small cafe…

The Madres de Plaza de Mayo Cafe and HQ24. Madres de Plaza de Mayo Cafe: This is the HQ of the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo (whose symbols you saw back at the start of the tour), where they run a cafe, bookstore and university, to help fund their activities. Behind the sign above the cafe are photos of some of the estimated 30,000 ‘disappeared’ victims, the children of the mothers, who went missing during the military regime of 1976-83. Many were thought to have been drugged and pushed to their deaths from planes over the Rio de la Plata. Only now are some of the perpetrators being tried for these crimes against humanity.

Cross over into the second part of Plaza Congreso and walk down the left-hand side of the square. This area can be a little unsavory at times, but it is not dangerous. When you get to near the end of the square, find a good position to take a look at the large monument to your right…

Monumento de los dos Congresos, Plaza Congreso25. Monumento de los Dos Congresos: The centerpiece statue and fountain of Plaza Congreso was imported to order from Brussels in 1908, made from marble & bronze. The central figure represents the Argentine Republic, holding a laurel branch for victory (over colonial Spain) and resting on a plow, for the hard work of those that built the country. The statues each side represent the two key congresses in Argentine history: May 1810 and July 1816, that saw independence gained. The fountain symbolizes the main rivers of Argentina’s plains, all flowing into a pool, that is the River Plate estuary.

Turn round from looking at the monument to take a better look at the grand old Congress building over the road. Do not cross yet, as the best view of Congress from the outside is from here across the road. Also, on some days, you may not be able to cross the road with ease, as the area between the monument and Congress is often the starting place for protests. Again, don’t worry, these are not dangerous…

Argentine Congress Building, Plaza Congreso26. Congress Building: The most imposing building in BA opened in 1906, although it wasn’t finished until 1946! 40 years late is about average round here. Worth the wait though, as it is an architectural masterpiece, combining many influences to great effect: mainly neo-classical, but also with nods and winks to the US Capitol, the Garnier Opera House in Paris & Berlin’s Brandenburg Gates. Made from massive blocks of granite, 2m thick at the base, thus providing a safe haven for politicians from protests outside. One room is named after Evita, and painted a similar pink as the Casa Rosada!

Having started this Buenos Aires City Tour with something pink, at the Casa Rosada, I think it is quite appropriate to also end it on a pink note, so that is the end of the tour. If you were following along from a printed version of this page, I hope you enjoyed it, and well done for not getting lost with my directions!

If you wish to return back to near the start of the tour to re-gain your bearings, you can go to Congreso subte station diagonally over the road to your right, and ride the A Line back to either the Peru or Plaza de Mayo station. That’s it!

Top Five Hotels in Buenos Aires

5. Caesar Park Hotel, Recoleta

A solid luxury hotel in Recoleta, with fantastic interior design, service and location (right across from the upmarket Patio Bullrich mall). Costs around US$270 a night, which is approximately US$250 over my usual budget.

So, how to experience this hotel without paying a dime? Just walk in the lobby and do your most confident impression of a paying hotel guest. Take the elevator up to the 17th floor, and take in the wonderful view of the Rio de la Plata, seeing right the way over to Uruguay on a good day. Exit soon after, before security come and give you the privilege of a personal escort out of the building

4. Bo Bo Hotel, Palermo Soho

One of the most coveted boutique hotels in Palermo Soho, the sub-barrio where boutique hotels seem to be popping up every week. The design is cool, modern, fun and ever so slightly pretentious, as you would expect from a place where the name stands for bourgeois bohemian. They even have themed rooms, ranging from Pop to Techno to Art Deco. And if that isn’t enough, the staff and restaurant also both get rave reviews. Rates are actually fairly reasonable, at about US$135 per night.

But you don’t want to pay that! Make do with a trip to the restaurant and a quick scan around the stylish hotel interior. To experience their eclectic international cuisine should set you back less than 50 pesos a head, and although the servings are fashionably small, they are still quite delicious, and you’ll get all of the bourgeois bohemian experience for a fraction of the price of a night in their hotel.

3. The Hotel Alvear, Recoleta

If you are a head of state, diplomat or just plain rolling in old money, this is the place to stay in Buenos Aires. Faultless old world style and service, the most desirable location on the most upscale avenue in the city (they even share the same name), and quite frankly, effortlessly the most classically beautiful hotel lobby, bar, cafe and restaurant in town. However, you’ll need to be rolling in old money to stay here - it’s probably going to set you back over US$400 a night!

For the rest of us mere mortals, the Alvear offers an alternative - and something of an institution for in the know visitors to Buenos Aires. Well, at least those that are in to tea and cake. For 55 pesos a head, you can indulge in an afternoon high tea at the Alvear’s beautifully appointed L’Orangerie cafe, and pretend you are rich for a few sweet, sweet moments, accompanied by a few sweet, sweet cakes and pastries. Just make sure you dress the part.

2. The Faena Hotel + Universe, Puerto Madero

The most fantastical hotel in Buenos Aires, fresh from the warped mind of designer Phillipe Starck, and the straining ego of Argentine entrepreneur Alan Faena. A potent combination, heightened by your own personal ‘experience manager’, there to respond to your every whim, as you create your own mini-universe within the swish former docklands of Puerto Madero. But don’t lose yourself quite yet… there’s the small matter of a US$400 per night bill to address at some point in time!

Fret not, for there is another way for the canny budget traveler like yourself to experience this hotel. Cocktails at the Faena’s “Library Lounge” (down the corridor on the right, just after the outdoor pool), complete with film set surroundings and kitsch mounted deer heads on the walls, should set you back about 30 pesos a go. Just make sure you check out the enchanting entrance corridor and toilets while you’re there (yes, even the toilets are out of this world at the Faena).

1. The Four Seasons ‘La Mansion’, Recoleta

This cute little mansion in the grounds of the Four Seasons hotel (see first picture at top of this post) is so expensive that only world famous rock and pop stars like U2, the Rolling Stones and Madonna can afford to stay there. And that must mean it’s great, right? Well, my economic situation means I can’t realistically confirm that, but the building certainly is a cut above most hotels - a wonderful turn of the 20th century French mansion house that looks plucked from the Loire valley. Let’s just hope the latest rock star in residence hasn’t thrown all the wide screen TVs out of the window
Let’s not even mention a nightly price for this place, and go straight to the ‘budget’ option. Sunday brunch downstairs at the Four Season’s La Mansion is a great chance to take in the full mansion house experience, while gorging yourself on the best breakfast in BA. OK, so it’ll set you back 125 pesos per person, but trust me, you’ll feel like a rock star throughout, and for a good while afterwards. Well, more accurately, you’ll feel a rock star does at breakfast, but we all have to start somewhere.

The reason I’ve come over all ‘top 5′ in this post is so as to enter a spiffing contest set up by problogger, one of my daily reads. And this isn’t any old blog contest - if chosen I could win a prize of US$1001 (!), which I promise, in the unlikely event of me winning, to partly invest in a night at one of the five hotels above, to see how the other side really do live, sin budget. In fact, I’ll take votes in the comments below for which hotel you think I should book and why, if I win, so please do make your suggestions in the comments section below.

It’s easier than ever these days to rent a Buenos Aires apartment if you know how to look. Just a few years ago, it was extremely difficult for a newly arrived expat to rent a nice apartment in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Thankfully, things have changed in the last few years to make things easier.

One of the biggest changes has been the rise of internet apartment rentals. Now it’s possible to find and rent apartments over the internet. You can see pictures of the rentals and even contact the rental management company before you even set foot in Argentina. This means that you can easily have a great place to live and relax in knowing that you have an apartment waiting for you.

Another big change over the last several years has been the fact that many apartment owners have realized that they can rent out their apartments on a week by week or even month by month basis. It’s a lot more convenient to expat renters who save money on hotel stays and don’t have to hassle with a mountain of paperwork just to rent an apartment. Owners have been able to open up their apartments to knew markets. It’s a win-win situation.

There you have it, two great new places to rent a Buenos Aires apartment with even less hassle. You can get the apartment and start your new life in Argentina.

It’s important to understand that finding your eventual full time home in Buenos Aires is not something that you can do in just mere days. Things move more slowly in Buenos Aires and this applies to housing. You don’t want to make the mistake of finding the first apartment available. This is where temporary Buenos Aires apartments come in. You can rent an apartment on a weekly or monthly basis until you are able to find that perfect apartment. Finding a good temporary apartment is essential in enjoying your stay in Buenos Aires.

Once you are in Buenos Aires, you have the time to find something for more long term. You might decide to stay in your temporary apartment or maybe once you can explore the city, you’ll find that you want to be in another part of the city. Again, you’ll have the time to get to know all of the best places n the city so it’s easy to make a decision.

Once you know the area, you can find different apartments in the area. Once you find one that you like, you should latch onto it as soon as you can. You’ll be happy that you did and you’ll know you are renting a great Buenos Aires apartment.

The culture in Buenos Aires is unbelievably diverse. There is a strong European influence thanks to Italian and German immigrants in years past. These immigrants joined the melting pot that created a uniquely South American culture with a deep love of music and the arts. You can literally spends hours every day exploring museums, galleries, and historically important sites and just barely scratch the surface of Buenos Aires culture.

The food in Buenos Aires is impressive indeed, not only for it’s rich flavor but for its relative low cost. While there are foods to fit nearly any kind of taste, beef is king and Argentinian chefs know how to bring out the most from the Argentina beef. Barbecues are a weekly occurrence and you are never far from a full plate of the best tasting beef you have ever tasted.

The weather is also nice in Buenos Aires,.Extremes in weather are rare. The summers are warm and the winters are mild. You can get the most out of life in Buenos Aires no matter what season it is.

The business opportunities available are great. For expats, there are many different business opportunities just waiting to be filled. Buenos Aires is the new land of opportunity.

The low cost of living is a good reason to rent a Buenos Aires apartment. Buenos Aires is a cosmopolitan city with all the benefits of cities in Europe but at a fraction of the cost of these other cities. It’s possible to rent very nice Buenos Aires apartments for unbelievably low prices compared to other places.

The list of reasons to rent a Buenos Aires apartment go on and on. One thing is certain, renting a Buenos Aires apartment is a great idea for a vacation rental.

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